You have reached your limit of free articles this month.

Enjoy unlimited access to myStatesman.com

Starting at just 99¢ for 8 weeks.

GREAT REASONS TO SUBSCRIBE TODAY!

  • IN-DEPTH REPORTING
  • INTERACTIVE STORYTELLING
  • NEW TOPICS & COVERAGE
  • ePAPER
X

You have read of premium articles.

Get unlimited access to all of our breaking news, in-depth coverage and bonus content- exclusively for subscribers. Starting at just 99¢ for 8 weeks

X

Welcome to myStatesman.com

This subscriber-only site gives you exclusive access to breaking news, in-depth coverage, exclusive interactives and bonus content.

You can read free articles of your choice a month that are only available on myStatesman.com.

In Paris, a place for coffee, cocktails and small plates


In Paris, premium coffee, craft cocktails and Mediterranean small plates would have been an incongruous combination not that long ago. But Bonhomie, the first dining venture from the group behind the Parisian cocktail bars Little Red Door and Lulu White, brings those elements together harmoniously. 

The restaurant may sit in a hip section of the 10th Arrondissement, but nothing about the space smacks of the typically unpolished Right Bank style. The décor employs an earthy color palette and sizable dining room, including a row of seats at the kitchen’s marble countertop, which put diners in eyeshot of Nicolau Pla Gomez, the Catalan chef (and an alumnus of the beloved restaurant Frenchie), and his team.  

When they opened Bonhomie in November, owners Timothée Prangé and Dotan Shalev imagined it as a hybrid space where guests come anytime from 8:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. and experience food and drink menus built around the pillars of the Mediterranean diet — small portions, sharing and simple, spirited cooking — in an inviting setting.  

“People think Mediterranean food is hummus and tabbouleh and Greek salads,” Prangé said. “We took a range of Mediterranean influences and show how diverse they can be.”  

The concept comes at a time when small-plates menus are proliferating at Paris restaurants but remain focused on French, produce-driven cooking, and foreign cuisines tend to exist in isolation.  

“I’m half Moroccan; my wife is Lebanese,” he said. “This cooking is a big part of our lives.”  

The night of my visit, the menu journeyed from Naples to Tétouan, in Morocco, and Tel Aviv. We started with the Panarima, a sumac-infused cocktail, and the house craft beer before ordering one of every dish on the menu. The roasted cauliflower spiced with Kashmiri masala and charred kale was perfectly crisp and paired beautifully with borek stuffed with Kombi cheese and pumpkin.  

Tender, slow-cooked lamb was served with chickpeas and preserved lemon and nicely offset the briny octopus salad, earning “best-ever” praise from my companions. If only the pumpkin crème caramel, which the server herself billed as divisive, due to its fleshy texture, could have ended the meal on as high a note.  

——  

Bonhomie, 22, rue d’Enghien; 33-9-83-88-82-51; bonhomie.paris. Average meal for two, without drinks or tip, is about 80 euros ($85).


Reader Comments ...


Next Up in Travel

In the air, that uneasy feeling of us vs. them

When a passenger was forcibly removed from his seat aboard an April 9 United Airlines flight to Louisville, Kentucky, before it left the gate in Chicago, the video taken by onlookers seemed to capture the mood in the air: Us vs. Them.  “There’s a lot of blame to go around, not the least of which is the overall culture of aviation where...
Travel Tips: How to pick a travel agent
Travel Tips: How to pick a travel agent

Finding the right travel agent is like finding the right doctor, according to David Kolner, who oversees the travel agent membership program for Virtuoso, a network of more than 15,000 agents globally. “This may sound extreme — after all, they’re only booking your travel — but your leisure time is one of your most valuable assets...
Giraffe's baby bump boosts tiny zoo's upkeep, conservation
Giraffe's baby bump boosts tiny zoo's upkeep, conservation

April the giraffe has brought a bundle to a tiny zoo in rural upstate New York, thanks to a YouTube video livestream of her pregnancy and birth of an incredibly cute calf that has riveted viewers around the world.  Owners of the for-profit Animal Adventure Park won't say exactly how much they've pulled in from all April-related ventures, but internet...
Suitcase GPS? Scented bags? The latest travel gadgets.
Suitcase GPS? Scented bags? The latest travel gadgets.

At the International Travel Goods Show, held this month in Las Vegas, I saw the future of travel. We will always know the whereabouts of our checked luggage. We will sleep as comfortably on planes as kittens in a basket. And we will never again experience the horror of watching our gadgets power down with no outlets in sight.  Fortunately, we...
Brace yourself for overbooked flights this summer

When United Airlines dragged a screaming man from his seat recently, bloodying him in the process, it caused a justifiable uproar. The resulting outrage is spurring a cry for additional fliers’ protections. When passengers aboard a small plane in Rochester, Minn., were held hostage for five-plus hours overnight in 2009, the incident and similar...
More Stories