breaking news

FOLLOW LIVE: Texas finishes regular season against Texas Tech

No ham needed for these greens-and-eggs dishes


Green eggs and ham, though a charming idea, are about as appealing as sitting in a box with a fox on a train in the rain — which is to say, not that fun.

What is fun, however, is finding new ways to combine greens and eggs, no ham required. These three dishes are from several new cookbooks that celebrate seasonal ingredients prepared with minimal fussing — or rhyming.

Green Garlic and Chive Mayonnaise

We readily admit to making our mayo in the food processor most of the time, but everyone should make it by hand at least once to watch and feel the emulsion come together. But it does take coordination — dribbling in oil with one hand as you mash and pound with your other is a little like rubbing your tummy while patting your head.

This voluptuous golden mix is a great addition to a BLT, or you can make a deviled egg knockoff in a fraction of the time. Peel as many hard-boiled eggs as you like and halve them lengthwise. Spread a smear of this green garlic and chive mayo over each egg and garnish with some chopped chives.

— Kate Winslow

1 bulb green garlic, finely chopped (or 3 cloves garlic)

Kosher salt

1 large egg yolk, room temperature

Juice of 1/2 lemon

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup grapeseed oil

1 tablespoon finely chopped chives

Combine the green garlic and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a mortar and pound to a paste with a pestle. Add the egg yolk, lemon juice and mustard and mash until thickened and sticky. Combine the olive oil and grapeseed oil in a measuring cup and start adding the oils to the garlic mixture in a slow dribble, mashing and stirring the whole time to incorporate the oil. As the mixture emulsifies, it will become thick and glossy. When all the oil has been added, taste the mayonnaise and adjust the seasonings as you like, adding a little more lemon juice or salt. Stir in the chives. Use right away, or store in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Makes 1 1/2 cups.

— From “Onions Etcetera: The Essential Allium Cookbook” by Kate Winslow and Guy Ambrosino (Burgess Lea Press, $35)

Mustard Greens & Gruyère Quiche with Almond Crust

Mustard greens are one of the first greens we harvest in the spring. I love their pungent, mustardy bite, and we often sauté a handful and add them to scrambled eggs or even sandwiches instead of spreading on traditional mustard. This breakfast quiche is a great way to incorporate mustard greens into a simple, farm-fresh meal. The almond crust has a crumbly texture and adds a nutty flavor.

— Andrea Bemis

For the almond crust:

2 cups almond flour

3 cloves of garlic, minced

1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

Pinch of freshly ground black pepper

Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes

1/3 cup olive oil

For the quiche:

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 shallots, minced (about ½ cup)

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 bunch mustard greens, roughly chopped (about 2 cups)

1/4 cup dry white wine

1/2 cup whole milk

4 eggs

½ cup grated Gruyère cheese

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

Pinch of freshly ground black pepper

Place a rack in the center of the oven. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Grease a 9-inch tart pan or pie plate with oil.

To make the crust, whisk together the almond flour, garlic, thyme, salt, black pepper and red pepper flakes in a large bowl. Stir in the oil and 4 teaspoons water. Mix until well combined.

Press the dough into the pie plate, making sure it goes at least 1 1/4 inches up the sides. Bake until the crust is lightly golden and firm to the touch, about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare the filling. In a large cast-iron skillet, heat the oil over medium. Add the shallots and garlic and cook, stirring often, until the pieces are translucent and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add the mustard greens and continue to cook until they begin to wilt a bit. Add the wine and continue to cook until the moisture evaporates. Remove the veggies from the heat and set them aside.

In a large bowl, whisk together the milk, eggs, cheese, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Add the cooked veggies and stir well. Pour the egg mixture into the prebaked crust and bake until the crust is a deep golden brown and the center of the quiche is set, 30 to 35 minutes. If the edges of the crust begin to brown too quickly, place foil around the edges of the pan to prevent burning. Allow the quiche to cool for a few minutes before serving. Serves 6.

— From “Dishing Up the Dirt: Simple Recipes for Cooking Through the Seasons” by Andrea Bemis (Harper Wave, $29.99)

Spinach and Egg Drop Soup

For many of us, our first taste of egg drop soup came from a plastic container along with a fortune cookie, duck sauce and white rice. I began making my own version with tatsoi, which is a firm plant similar to spinach with a mild, mustardy bite. This recipe calls for spinach because it’s easier to find in most markets, but if you’re able to locate some tatsoi, then I encourage you to be adventurous and swap it in as the main green. You’ll be surprised how easy this soup is to make. Within seconds of adding the egg, the broth thickens, and moments later, you’ll be ladling the sumptuous mixture into a bowl, never to return to Chinese takeout. How’s that for a fortune, sans cookie?

— Summer Rayne Oakes

For homemade vegetable broth:

2 garlic cloves, sliced

1/2 yellow onion, diced

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 to 3 carrots, diced

1 to 2 carrot tops

2 celery stalks

2 to 4 sprigs thyme

16 cups water

1 to 2 bay leaves, optional

1 teaspoon celery seeds, optional

1 to 2 cloves, optional

Sauté the garlic and onion with the olive oil in the bottom of the pressure cooker until they are fragrant, approximately 2 minutes.

Add the remainder of the ingredients to the pressure cooker. Use at least 16 cups of water or fill the cooker ¾ of the way full. Seal the pressure cooker, bring it to pressure, and cook for 50 minutes.

Turn off the heat. The pressure will drop automatically. Strain the liquid through a sieve into another large pot. I often also use a heavy duty paper towel with the sieve as well. Press the liquid from the vegetables into the new pot. Compost the remaining vegetables.

For the egg drop soup:

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 shallot, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon peeled and julienned ginger

2 cloves garlic, chopped

4 cups vegetable broth (homemade from above recipe or store-bought)

Pinch sea salt, to taste

Pepper, to taste

2 eggs, lightly beaten

1 bunch spinach

Handful green onion, chopped

Parsley, for garnish

¼ teaspoon sesame seeds, for garnish

Heat the olive oil in a deep pot over medium heat and add the shallot and ginger, stirring for about 2 minutes until they are fragrant. Add the garlic and sauté for another minute.

Pour the vegetable broth over the shallot and garlic mixture. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer.

Whisk the eggs in a small bowl with a little salt and pepper. Add the spinach and green onions to the vegetable broth and cook until wilted, about 30 seconds. Begin stirring in the egg mixture slowly. Season to taste, garnish and serve.

— From “SugarDetoxMe: 100+ Recipes to Curb Cravings and Take Back Your Health” by Summer Rayne Oakes (Sterling Epicure, $24.95)



Reader Comments ...


Next Up in Austin360 Eats

Making turkey soup this weekend? Here’s our family’s favorite homemade noodle recipe
Making turkey soup this weekend? Here’s our family’s favorite homemade noodle recipe

I can think of few comfort foods I love more than my family’s chicken and noodles. Homemade noodles can become the star of any soup, but they particularly shine with leftover turkey and homemade stock. Addie Broyles / American-Statesman My mom learned how to make handmade noodles from one of my dad’s co-workers in the 1990s...
Here are 10 Texas whiskeys you might want on your holiday wish list
Here are 10 Texas whiskeys you might want on your holiday wish list

Kentucky isn’t the only state in the U.S. making top-of-the-line whiskey. Texas may not have been doing it for as long as America’s bourbon bastion, but our proud state has proven that we can still hold our own against legacy producers — perhaps in part because the whiskey industry here is still so young and willing to be adventurous...
2017 Beaujolais Nouveau wine label is created by a St. Petersburg artist
2017 Beaujolais Nouveau wine label is created by a St. Petersburg artist

Every year, there are bad things we can count on: taxes and death. And good things: Thanksgiving Day on the fourth Thursday of November and on the Thursday before, the Beaujolais nouveau arrives. What is less predictable is just how this vin de l'annee ("this year's wine") stacks up. Every now and then the young gamay from the Beaujolais...
Holiday gift guide: Food
Holiday gift guide: Food

These gifts will satisfy the appetites of the food and drink lovers on your list. The nubby handles take a little getting used to, but they encourage a proper knife grip by directing the hand into the proper position and enabling fingers to lock in the front and back. The forged steel eight-inch chef's knife and 3.5-inch paring knife slice cleanly...
Of pints and predators: inside the U.K. Parliament’s boozy hangouts
Of pints and predators: inside the U.K. Parliament’s boozy hangouts

LONDON — A plaque on a wall at the Sports and Social Club, a dingy and stuffy bar located next to garbage cans in the basement of the Houses of Parliament in London, reads: “The Code of the Man Cave. What happens here stays here! Violators will be shot — survivors will be shot again.” That jokey warning took on serious undertones...
More Stories